Learn how to draw. Go to college. Do as many work placements as possible. Be yourself. If you want to be a shoe designer badly enough, you’ll get there.
What is your job?
I'm a shoe designer at Monsoon.
What does your job involve?
At Monsoon, first I research and analyse catwalk trends. I keep in touch with what competitors are doing by visiting shops and writing shop reports on the UK, Paris and New York. I work closely with the buying team to brainstorm ideas, and we outline an ‘ideal range’. Then I produce designs and technical drawings, detail the components and materials for the shoes, send the designs out to suppliers, and go to the factories to oversee the sampling. When the samples are back, we build the range, arrange for the 100 or so designs to go into production, then send the finished shoes into the stores.
This job is not just about drawing shoes. You have to be really aware of the business side of things, because every shoe you design will take up space in the store and every shoe has to make money.
How did you get to this point in your career?
My first job was in production for a Turkish clothing company, organising all the orders and sampling. I worked as a sample cutter for Monsoon, cutting out fabrics, then got a job in production for a footwear company. After my MA, I worked for a footwear company called Hudson, which involved going to Spain and Italy every week to work with the factories producing the womenswear range. This involved visiting the last maker, the heel maker, going to find the leather and sourcing the trims. It was very good practical experience which helped me hone my skills.
Four years ago, I started freelancing for Monsoon, and now work there three days a week as a shoe designer. I also freelance for another company that supplies high street brands.
What training did you do and where?
First, I did an Art Foundation course at St Alban’s College of Art & Design, because I enjoyed art, but didn’t know what I wanted to do. It gave me a good grounding in sculpture, pottery, fine art, graphics and textiles. I took a BA in Fashion and Textiles at Birmingham then, after working for five years, I did an MA in Footwear at the Royal College of Art.
Which piece of work are you most proud of?
It’s always the latest collection that I’ve worked on. Things move so fast that I’m always on to the next thing. I like the Autumn / Winter collection I’ve just designed – and want to buy quite a lot of them. That’s always a good sign!
What do you need to succeed in your industry?
You need to be determined, have a good eye for detail, understand what customers want rather than indulging your own tastes, and be able to communicate well.
Who’s your work hero / heroine?
I really like clean, clever products that look simple but are actually quite complicated. I like designers such as Ron Arad, Jasper Morrison, Philippe Starck and Robin Day. I like Lucienne Day’s textile designs and shoes by Costume National and Chie Mihara.
What inspired you to do this type of work?
At Birmingham I did a placement with the shoemaker Paul Harnden, spending three months in a croft in Scotland, hand making shoes and sleeping in the barn with his dog. I loved it. It was a very romantic, idyllic way of working that possibly wasn’t very representative of shoemaking in general.
What do your friends/family think of the work you do?
Some of my friends’ parents wouldn’t let them study art, but mine were always very supportive. They had no experience of my chosen career and were unable to give me advice, so I muddled along and found my own way.
What are your tips for anyone wanting to do your job?
Learn how to draw. Go to college. Do as many work placements as possible. Be yourself. If you want to be a shoe designer badly enough, you’ll get there.
Creative inspirations
The Design Museum
I love looking at everyday objects – old phones, Tupperware and fabrics – things we take for granted. I find them inspiring.
Alessi products
Alessi products are always quirky, witty and fun. I particularly love the corkscrew that looks like a parrot and the toilet brush that looks like a plant in a plant pot.
V&A exhibitions
Two photographic exhibitions in particular stand out for me. One was an exhibition called M.I.L.K. on friendships and family, the other was the Lee Miller retrospective. She did so much and changed tack so often – from model to muse to photographer to war correspondent.
Barbara Hepworth
My husband and I went to St Ives in 2005 to see Barbara Hepworth’s sculpture garden and studio, which has been turned into a museum. I love her sculptures; they’re so simple and tactile.
My dad’s methodical approach
My dad was a chemist and he had a very logical approach and could always work out solutions. When I was doing my MA, he used to help me solve problems. Hopefully I’ve got some of his genes.
Being a magpie on holiday
I’ve always travelled a lot with my work, and love picking up bits and pieces on my way. I’m particularly attracted to colour and sparkle. I’ve got textiles from India, paper cuttings from China and a kitsch Kewpie doll from a flea market in San Francisco.
Graphic artists
I’m a fan of artists like Gary Hume and Patrick Caulfield who use block colour and shadow in a very graphic way.
Sunshine
At the risk of sounding corny, I’m always inspired by sunshine, love and feeling happy. When the sun shines, you feel you can do anything.
Memoirs
I really enjoy reading about lives of creative types. One particular book I couldn’t stop raving about was Derek Jarman’s ‘Smiling in Slow Motion’, a collection of his diary writings from 1991-94.
Shoes!
If you would like advice on creative careers and courses, contact a Creative Way Careers Adviser - either Matt Ball on m.ball@uel.ac.uk / 07889 001764 or Sarah Comerford on s.comerford@uel.ac.uk / 07515 051509.